ESS 130: Physical Oceanography
   
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Instructor:
 Claudia Pasquero
3224 Croul Hall
claudia.pasquero@uci.edu
Office hours: TTh 5-6 pm (or by appointment) 		Lectures:
 TTh 3:30-4:50 pm
Location: RH 184

First meeting: Jan 6th 2008



Description: Physical processes that determine the distribution of water properties such as salt and temperature. Fluid-dynamical underpinnings of physical oceanography. Wave motions. The wind-driven and thermohaline circulation. Similarities and differences between ocean and atmosphere dynamics. Prerequisites: Mathematics 2D and Physics 7A-B-E, or consent of instructor.

Syllabus:

  • Geometric characteristics of the Ocean. Bathimetry. Echosounders. Sound propagation. Light transmission.
  • Properties of seawater: temperature and salinity. Mixed layer. Thermocline. Potential temperature.
  • Density. Seawater equation of state. Static stability. Brunt-Vaisala frequency.
  • Surface gravity waves. Shallow water and deep water waves. Refraction. Tsunami. Internal waves.
  • Equations of motion. Wind stress. Molecular and eddy viscosity. Coriolis Force. Ekman motion. Inertia currents.
  • Hydrostatic equation. Pressure gradients. Geostrophic currents. Barotropic and baroclinic conditions.
  • Dynamic height. Divergence and convergence. Basic atmospheric circulation. Subtropical gyres. Vorticity. Topographic stirring.
  • Western intensification. Gulf Stream. Current measurements. Rings. Eastern currents and upwelling.
  • Equatorial processes. Monsoonal circulation. Kelvin waves. Rossby waves. El Nino Southern Oscillation. Tides. Polar regions: the Arctic Sea and the Southern Ocean.
  • Heat budget. Salt budget. Ocean water masses. Tracers. Meridional circulation.
    Grading:
  • Homework assignments: 30%
  • Homework assigments will be distributed on Thursdays and are due in class the following Thursday.
  • There will be 6 assignments; the lowest score will be dropped in the final grade.
  • Exams (in class, closed books and notes): 70%
  • Mid-term exam: 30%
  • Final exam: 40%

    • Examinations:
  • Mid term: Thursday, Feb 5th, 3:30-4:50 pm - RH 184
  • Final: Tuesday, Mar 17th, 4:00-6:00 pm - RH 184
    Textbooks:
  • The Open University Team Ocean Circulation, Butterworth-Heinemann (2001)
  • R. Stewart, Introduction to Physical Oceanography. This is an online text that can be downloaded for free.

    Other resources:
  • G. Pickard and W. Emery, Descriptive Physical Oceanography: An Introduction.
  • J. Knauss, Introduction to Physical Oceanography.
  • S. Pond and G. Pickard, Introductory Dynamical Oceanography.
  • M. Tomczak and J.S.Godfrey, Regional Oceanography: an Introduction. Pdf format offered for free download.
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